If you think we’ve asked some big questions in 2020, they’re not over quite yet. In December, we’ve been forced to consider a whopper, namely: is the humble Scotch egg a starter or a main, a picnic-ready snack or a “substantial meal”?
It was environment secretary George Eustice who first confirmed a Scotch egg “probably would count” as a substantial meal when ordered with a drink in a pub, only for Michael Gove to weigh in on This Morning that Scotch eggs were a starter – before backtracking to say that, yes, no, they were definitely a meal.
Clearly we can’t get un oeuf, because there’s even a Scott Chegg joke making the rounds online, with people punning for England around their popular snack.
All this talk of Scotch eggs has given us a proper hankering. And despite the controversy and confusion of this week’s debate, there is one thing we can all agree on – Scotch eggs are utterly delicious. Cooked properly, that is. There’s a egg-sized hole between a dry, bitty shop-bought version and the properly gooey kind you’ll find at a farmer’s market, say, or (cough) a Tier 2 public house.
So, how do you achieve the perfect one? We’re talking a crispy golden shell, flavoursome sausage meat, and most importantly, a soft-boiled, runny-yolked egg inside. We turned to chefs and even the inventor of the humble Scotch egg, London’s Fortnum & Mason, to find out how to make this spherical wonder.
“It’s all about simple flavours done well, and the traditional recipe uses just salt, pepper, and onions,” a Fortnum & Mason spokesperson tells HuffPost UK. “For more adventurous tastebuds though, we recommend adding oregano, sage, and garlic.”
The first Scotch egg was created in 1738, since when it’s come a long way.
″The name ‘Scotch egg’ comes from the fact they would contain anchovies, which gave them their strong, or ‘scotched’ flavour,” Fortnum’s explains. Originally, they contained a pullet – or young hen’s – egg. “The eggs we now use came later, with modern inventions even basing the recipe around quail, duck and goose eggs.”
Whether they’re meaty, veggie or even vegan – yes, vegan eggs do exist – the perfect Scotch egg is all in the high-quality ingredients. And according to its original creators, free-range meat, eggs make all the difference. It’s also important to keep in mind the right ingredient ratio with a balanced flavour profile that doesn’t throw everything off.
“We keep our herbs and spices relatively simple – some red wine, rosemary and black pepper in the sausage meat,” says Sally Abé, head chef at the Harwood Arms of the classic Scotch egg. “You want to taste the yolk but also want that lovely meaty flavour. We use venison, which is a red meat, and we add a little bit of pork sausage meat in there to balance it out and stop it from getting dry.”
What’s the secret to a soft and jammy yolk that melts in your mouth when you cut a Scotch egg in half? “We cook the eggs for exactly six minutes and then they’re plunged into ice water, so the egg doesn’t get overcooked. After that, we deep-fry for five and half minutes at 180°C and then we rest it for three minutes before serving,“ says Abé. “They’re cooked just enough to be able to shape the patty around but still lovely and runny in the middle.”
As for the million-dollar question: does a scotch egg constitute a substantial meal? “We would say so, as long as it comes from Fortnum’s!” says the upmarket grocers. “We invented originally invented it as a meal for intrepid travellers, enabling them to carry great food safely and securely on their expeditions. It was an extremely innovative creation at the time, that allowed a pocket-stored meal on the move.” And, that’s the final say on the eggy discourse.