Prague has long been a favourite city break escape for those travelling from the UK and looking for a taste of la vie Bohème. The speedy 3½-hour flight time is a bonus, while awe-inspiring Gothic architecture and an upbeat after-dark scene appeals to intrepid explorers and nightlife lovers alike.
Here’s everything you need to know to make the most of your three-day visit to Prague. The most important phrase to master before you jet off is Kde je pivní zahrada. That’s “where’s the beer garden?” to you and I.
4pm: Jump right in
You’ve landed in the City of a Hundred Spires. First stop? Prague’s Jerusalem Synagogue. This architectural stunner, with its Moorish-tinged Art Nouveau style and vibrant hues, is a must-visit. The Jerusalem Synagogue is a 15-minute walk from the city’s Jewish quarter, where you’ll also find Europe’s oldest active synagogue, the 13th-century Old New Synagogue.
4:30pm: Treat yourself
Time for a snack. Sample an Instagram-friendly trdelník – a chimney cake of sugary, cinnamony, nutty deliciousness at Creperie U Kajetana, a stone’s throw from the Gingerbread Museum, which is also worth a visit. This museum is actually a shop where you can stock up on gorgeously-decorated gingerbread biscuits as souvenirs. Calling all absurdist/dystopian fiction buffs – the Kafka Museum is a 10-minute walk away and has enough of Kafka’s writings for you to geek out over for a good hour or two.
6pm: Beer time
Fun fact: The Czechs drink more beer per person than any other place on earth. So, naturally, you’ll want to make like a local and spend the rest of your evening sipping in one of the city’s best beer gardens. Or, if you’re really hardcore, you can check out one of Prague’s Beer Spas and bathe in the stuff, while drinking it. Widely considered the city’s best beer garden, Letná Beer Garden has gorgeous views, picnic tables, chips and snacks. Plus, there’s nothing more satisfying than sipping your Pilsner, Kozel Dark or Gambrinus knowing you paid only €1.50 for it. A drink or two here gives you an excuse for a pleasant evening stroll through the pretty Letná Gardens. Riegrovy Sady in the Rieger Gardens is another top spot.
SATURDAY
8am: Go for an early stroll
The City of a Hundred Spires is also the city of thousands of people wanting to see those spires. Ditch the tourists with an early wakeup so you can check out Prague’s glorious Old Town. A walk through the city’s historic centre is worth the views – and the social media snaps – and you can skip the queues as you leisurely cross 14th-century Charles Bridge in the direction of the Astronomical Clock, with its famous rotating apostles. The clock’s been ticking since 1410.
11am: Enjoy the views
An early start to the day means there’s plenty of time for exploration ahead. Vyšehrad is a hilltop castle with striking views, which happens to be a favourite with locals too. Thought to date back as early as the 10th century, the medieval fortress is the ideal vantage point to take in the city. As well as touring the cathedral, be sure to walk through the cemetery with sculpture-park style statues of its famous dwellers. Your soundtrack? Perk up your ears and listen out for the monks’ chanting.
1pm: Vegan food? In Prague?
Sure, one of Prague’s signature dishes might be the pork knuckle, but the city is also one of the top vegan destinations in Europe, with a varied and delicious array of vegan fare. Sociální bistro Střecha dishes up vegan Czech cuisine and is known for its delicious ‘melting cheese’ burgers. Better yet, your ultra-reasonable lunch helps pay to employ the homeless.
5pm: Get arty
David Černý’s modernist-meets-surrealist sculptures are dotted around Prague – you’ll find his ‘Tower Babies’, giant crawling infants next to the Žižkov Television Tower and ‘St. Wenceslas Astride’, an inverted horse in the Lucerna Passage. He’s also the man behind the hanging Sigmund Freud sculpture in Prague’s Old Town (just look up and you’ll see it). If you’re feeling more adventurous, Černý’s off-the-beaten-track MeetFactory is well worth a visit. You’ll find experimental exhibitions by local artists, screenings and live music gigs.
7pm: Sample Czech wine
We’ll let you in on a little secret – Czech beer isn’t the only delicious drink you should be having here. The region’s wine is fantastic, too. Tiskárna restaurant offers old-school dishes from turn-of-the-century cookbooks, with delicious wine pairings to accompany each one, like pork belly roulette, goulash with potato dumplings and lemon cake for dessert. Looking for an after-party? Palác Akropoli is the best venue in town for gigs and DJ sets, with not a tourist in sight.
SUNDAY
9am: Visit the King’s alchemists on Golden Lane
Take an early morning stroll through Golden Lane, a street in the grounds of Prague Castle. A site of magic and mythology with tiny, picturesque houses from the 16th century named after the King’s alchemists, it may not give you the power of turning things to gold, but literary fans will be happy to discover Kafka’s former home at no. 22. While here, you can explore some of Prague Castle’s other wonders, like Gothic St. Vitus Cathedral.
11am: Stop off at a chic café
Need some last-minute social-worthy pics before you jet off? Café Chloé is an Instagrammer’s dream come true with its pink-hued décor (including food and drink) and wall of rosy blooms. Order a smoothie bowl, delectable layered cake or upside-down ice-cream dessert. Popsicle-infused drinks are another menu favourite.
12pm: Time for another art jaunt
Contemporary arts centre Dox Prague, with its labyrinthine layout, is another spot worth checking out for the space alone. Don’t miss its famous rooftop zeppelin, as well as any cool exhibitions on display.
3pm: Take to the skies
Prague is as much a city to be seen from the ground as it is from the skies. Uncover one of the best rooftops in town before you head back to the airport and make a pitstop at the Lucerna in Wenceslas Square. Hosting everything from concerts to poetry nights, this Art Nouveau building dates back to the 1920s and an old-school paternoster lift will transport you up to the 5th floor roof. Order a cool beer before bidding ahoj to this incredible city.
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