When I learned that baking powder wasn’t invented until the late 1840s, I wondered how cakes ― which need some type of leavening agent to produce a fluffy, soft crumb ― used to get made.
Ancient Roman offerings used yeast, but sometime after the 1600s, some European sponges rose because of the air trapped in beaten egg whites.
That’s still how Genoise sponges, which are similar to chiffon cakes, are made today.
Mary Berry, who isn’t afraid of changing up a classic recipe, seems to think the original approach needn’t be tampered with. In fact, her Genoise sponge cake recipe only requires four basic ingredients.
How does she make her Genoise sponges?
She uses flour, eggs, sugar and butter to whip up the centuries-old classic, though she also says you can optionally include vanilla extract and salt.
The former Great British Bake Off judge’s recipe uses equal amounts of caster sugar and flour with a third as much butter as both. She adds one egg per 30g of flour or sugar.
First, Mary preheats her oven to 180°C (160°C fan)/350°F/gas mark 4, then she greases and lines two cake tins.
After that, she places a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of boiling water, places the eggs and sugar in the basin, and whisks the mixture until it’s pale, thick and tripled in volume.
She then gently folds in the flour, being careful not to over-mix it (you can include a pinch of salt at this point) and adds cooled melted butter before folding it again.
You can add vanilla extract at that point if you like.
Once the batter’s combined, the Cordon Bleu-chef places it into the cake tins and bakes them for about 20-25 minutes.
Why would you make a Genoise sponge when regular types are easier?
It might seem like all that whisking is a bit more hassle than you’re ready for.
But like making Italian or Swiss meringue over the French kind, the incorporated sugar that’s bound to egg whites means Genoise sponges are a little fluffier than their Victorian counterparts.
Genoise sponges do come at the cost of a little sturdiness, and stay fresh for a shorter amount of time, than Victorian versions ― but if you’re after that extra-fluffy feel, there’s no better way to go.