Most of us know how important it is to wear suncream when we’re on holiday or on a warm summer’s day (lobster in the beer garden is not a look) but if you live in the UK with eternal cloud cover, and perpetual drizzle, wearing it year-round might not feel much of a priority.
But increasingly, we are told we should be wearing SPF every day of the year – regardless of the weather or if we’re heading to the office for eight hours of largely sitting in doors.
The British Association of Dermatologists says more than 100,000 new cases of skin cancer are diagnosed annually in the UK, and while the disease can occur on parts of the body not exposed to sunlight, extensive sun exposure is thought to be responsible for the vast majority.
As many as 80% of cases of skin cancer are preventable, the BAD says, which means it’s smart to reach for the sunscreen. But what factor should we be wearing? How much do we need to apply? And is really necessary when it’s raining?
HuffPost UK spoke to Dr Anjali Mahto, a consultant dermatologist, Dr Sam Bunting, a cosmetic dermatologist, and Holly Barber at the British Association of Dermatologists about the SPF golden rules.
Why Is Sun Damaging To Skin?
“Let’s go back to basics,” says Dr Anjali Mahto. “Sunlight is made up of multiple wavelengths of light of which the most damaging to the skin are UVA and UVB. UVB radiation is the ray responsible for sunburn. When the skin reddens or peels this due to direct damage to DNA in our keratinocytes (skin cells). It is of shorter wavelength and does not penetrate as deep as UVA.
“UVA, on the other hand, is often considered to be the ray responsible for premature skin ageing – fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, and skin laxity [looseness].”
What Does SPF Mean?
SPF stands for ‘sun protection factor’ – in the UK, it’s the way sunscreens are labelled to show the level of protection they offer against UVB rays. (Some suncreams also include a star rating indicating how much protection they offer against UVA rays relative to UVB protection).
You can find SPFs ranging from 2 to more than 50. “Ratings between 2 and 14 form the least protected end of the spectrum, and ratings of 50+ offer the strongest forms of UVB protection,” explains the British Association of Dermatologists.
“We recommend a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 as a satisfactory form of sun protection in addition to protective shade and clothing,”
If It’s All About Sunshine, Should I Wear SPF When It’s Not Sunny?
Dr Bunting acknowledges SPF can be confusing when you’re considering it as part of a skincare routine, and fewer than half her UK-based patients adhere to a daily SPF habit. Who can blame them when it’s so regularly cloudy – but is that cloud cover enough to ensure our skin is protected?
The British Association of Dermatologists says 80% of UV rays penetrate cloud cover, so a lack of bright sunshine isn’t an excuse to skip SPF. Dr Mahto says: “In the winter months in the northern hemisphere, we have very little UVB radiation but there is still UVA around.” For this reason we should be wearing products 365 days a year, Mahto argues.
Holly Barber says you shouldn’t rely on how warm it feels to make a decision about SPF: “The risk of skin damage from the sun is related to the UV index, not the temperature,” she says. “The temperature or time of year alone should not be used as a guide as to the need for sun protection. A UV index above 3 is the threshold at which we recommend using sun protection. ”
Does This Depend On My Skin Tone Though?
Barber says: “People with very dark skin types are unlikely to require sunscreen whilst in the UK, as their risk of sun damage is much lower, whilst their risk of vitamin D deficiency is higher.
“There are some exceptions to this including if you have a skin condition, such as photosensitivity, vitiligo or lupus, if you have a high risk of skin cancer or if you are taking immunosuppressive treatments.”
Should SPF Be In My Moisturiser And Make Up Or Is It Better To Apply Separately?
If you’re going to work in the dark and leaving in the dark in the depths of December, you probably aren’t seeing much sunlight. “In this case, if you prefer to wear a moisturiser with SPF it is probably fine,” says Dr Mahto. “If you work outdoors, do sport or train outside, have extreme sensitivity to the sun, or are simply concerned about your skin cancer risk and ageing, then the safest option is to opt for a separate broad-spectrum sunscreen with minimum SPF 30.”
Studies show that generally people under-apply skincare products, which means you won’t necessarily getting the stated level of protection from these products – worth bearing in mind if you wear a combined SPF and moisturiser or makeup.
Dr Bunting agrees that it is better to use separate products: “People tend to hugely under-apply cosmetics so its just not feasible to rely on them for UV protection. Most won’t protect against the ageing UVA rays that are present all year round, as SPF solely refers to protection against UVB rays,” she says.
I’m Worried About Making My Skin Oily With Suncream - Should I Be?
You aren’t alone in fearing that SPF use could make other skin problems worse, even while you help your skin in the long term. “The idea of daily use [SPF] triggers anxiety that it will clog pores, leave a greasy film or look visible, creating a white cast,” acknowledges Dr Bunting. “I hear these objections from my patients everyday.”
But there are options even if you have an oily complexion.“Personally I find wearing a moisturiser and sunscreen makes my face shiny and clogs my pores,” says Dr Mahto. To help limit breakouts, she instead recommends using a light, moisturising hyaluronic acid serum rather than a full-on moisturiser underneath your SPF.
Which Products Should I Use For SPF Coverage?
An ideal sunscreen should have both UVA and UVB protection – what is known as a broad-spectrum sunscreen – advises Dr Mahto. “The SPF is a marker of UVB protection and some sunscreens contain a star rating or UVA in a circular logo to demonstrate UVA protection.”
So which products should we be looking at when we’re next at the shops? Dr Sam Bunting recommends her own formulation Flawless Daily Sunscreen (£29) while other brands offer similar products: Ren’s Clean Screen Mineral SPF 30 (£30) or The Ordinary Mineral UV Filters SPF 30 (£8.90). If you’ve got a bit more money to spend then the La Mer SPF 50 UV Protecting Fluid (£85).