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During these novel times, eating in has replaced eating out and kitchens have become our sanctuary. Many are finding solace in baking and cooking when the world doesn’t make sense.
This year, Easter will be different for a lot of us thanks to coronavirus preventing us from gathering around the table with extended family and friends. But that doesn’t mean you can’t rustle up creative meals and entertain those you’re self-isolating with.
Three chefs and food writers share their recipes for a delicious, food-filled bank holiday weekend, as well as tips and tricks on swapping out ingredients when you’ve got limited food supplies.
Creamy Broad Beans On Toast
Avocado on toast is perhaps the biggest brunch seller out there. It’s delicious, but the popularity of the green fruit has put a strain on the supply chain, impacting the countries of origin like Mexico and Kenya. To improve your footprint, eat avos as a treat and try experimenting with different, locally-grown alternatives like this broad bean guacamole.
When blended, broad beans become creamy, unctuous and vivid green – just like avocado, but with a fraction of the carbon footprint.
Serves: 4 toasts
Ingredients:
360g fresh or frozen broad beans – shelled weight
Glug of extra virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
6 fresh coriander sprigs, leaves picked, stalks finely chopped
1 unwaxed lime, zest and juice
To serve:
1/2 red onion, finely diced
4 slices of toast
Pinch of dried chilli flakes or some sliced fresh red chilli
A light dusting of sumac, optional
Method:
1. Blanch the whole broad beans in a large pan of boiling water for 3 minutes, then drain and refresh under cold running water.
2. Transfer the beans to a food processor, add the extra virgin olive oil, coriander stalks, half of the coriander leaves and the lime zest and juice and blitz to a smooth purée. Season to taste with salt.
3. Spread the guacamole generously onto the toast and dress with the remaining coriander leaves, red onion, some chilli, a dusting of sumac, if using, and a drizzle of olive oil.
Recipe from Eating for Pleasure, People & Planet by Tom Hunt, published by Kyle Books in Hardback at £26
Boulangère Potatoes
It’s difficult to suggest the ideal dish to feed the household this weekend – one single recipe is unlikely to tally with everyone. Instead go with the frame of mind I’ve gone by for years: concentrate on the sides and a good meal will follow.
Consider trying this recipe for boulangère potatoes – it’s a timely way of mixing up the normal roast potato option. You don’t need cream, as you would for Dauphinoise, and it’s something that can be done well ahead to sit in the oven or be reheated as required. Serve with whichever meat or centrepiece you find, and some healthy greens.
Serves: 4-6 people
Ingredients:
600ml chicken stock
1.5kg potatoes – ideally waxy, such as Desiree or Vivaldi, but any are fine
1 large onion, thinly sliced
3 garlic cloves, very thinly sliced
Leaves from 10 sprigs thyme or 2 tablespoons dried thyme
Leaves from 5 sprigs rosemary, finely chopped or 1 tablespoon dried oregano
100g butter, thinly sliced
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 200 ̊C/Fan 180 ̊C/Gas 6.
2. Bring the chicken stock to a gentle simmer in a pan, then turn the heat off. Peel the potatoes and cut them into 2–3mm slices. This is quickest if you use a mandolin, otherwise, just slice as finely as you can.
3. Choose an ovenproof dish around 5–8cm deep that will fit all the sliced potatoes. Layer the slices in it, using the less uniform slices and end pieces first. Once you have completed the first layer, sprinkle over a handful of onion, a few slices of garlic, a good pinch or two of herbs, 3 or 4 slices of butter and season with salt and pepper. Add another layer of potatoes and flavourings and repeat until all of the potatoes have been used. Use up all the herbs before the final layer of potatoes and don’t worry too much about presentation until the final layer or two.
4. Pour the warmed chicken stock or water over the potatoes, then dot any remaining butter on top. Put the dish on a baking tray (in case of overspill), then bake on the top shelf for 1-1.5 hours, until the top is crisp and brown and a fork pushes through the other layers with ease. After 15 minutes, press down the top layer with a fish slice or palette knife and repeat every 10-15 minutes from then on. This will ensure the potatoes are compressed and the top is crisp and a glossy caramel colour, rather than a dry and unappealing shade of brown.
Recipe from On the Side by Ed Smith, published by Bloomsbury in Hardback at £14.99
Slow-Cooked Leg of Lamb With Harissa
Lamb is robust enough to stand up to strong flavours, and this Middle Eastern-inspired leg of lamb with a harissa kick really delivers. The recipe could be adapted with pesto, Dijon mustard or yoghurt, chilli powder, ground cumin, ground coriander, lemon zest and salt instead of harissa. And if you aren’t able to find aubergines, sub in potatoes, sweet potatoes or whole red, yellow and orange peppers. Perfect to feed a crowd.
Serves: 8 people
Ingredients:
2 aubergines, thickly cut into 1cm slices
1 red onion, roughly sliced
1 x 2–2.5kg leg of lamb
1 head of garlic, halved
4 heaped teaspoonsof harissa paste
1 tablespoon sea salt
1 tablespoon olive oil
350g vine tomatoes
250g Greek yoghurt
1 bunch of fresh mint, finely chopped
2 handfuls of couscous (optional)
Method:
1. Preheat the oven to 130°C fan/150°C/gas 2. Line a roasting tin with the aubergine slices, then scatter over the onion. Place the leg of lamb on top of the vegetables, and tuck the halved garlic alongside.
2. Stab the lamb all over with a very sharp knife, then rub all over with the harissa paste. Sprinkle the meat and vegetables with the sea salt, then drizzle the oil over the garlic and vegetables. Transfer to the oven and roast for 30 minutes, uncovered, then cover with foil and roast for a further 2 hours.
3. After 2 hours, add the vine tomatoes to the tin, then cover and return the lamb to the oven for a further hour. Throw in the couscous (if using) to cook in the juices in the roasting tin for the last 10 minutes
4. Meanwhile, mix together the Greek yoghurt and mint for the accompaniment.
5. Allow the meat to rest for at least 15 minutes before serving with the couscous, vegetables and yoghurt.
Recipe from The Roasting Tin by Rukmini Iyer, published by Square Peg in Hardback at £16.99