If you’re looking to achieve calm and happy skin, it might be time to rethink how you wash your face.
Many of us wash our faces with hot water to open and clear our pores, finishing with cold water to close them. Not to mention, hot water just feels so relaxing on the skin, especially in the shower. But can exposing your skin to extreme temperatures do more harm than good? We spoke with dermatologists to find out how bad it really is to wash your face with hot water.
First of all, your pores don’t actually open or close.
Contrary to popular belief, pores don’t open and close like windows when exposed to hot or cold water. “The truth is, pores do not have muscles, so they cannot physically open or close in response to temperature,” said Dr. Hannah Kopelman, who has a focus in dermatology. “Hot water may temporarily loosen oils and debris on the skin, making pores appear cleaner, but it doesn’t actually change their size. On the other hand, cold water might temporarily constrict blood vessels, giving skin a tighter appearance, but it doesn’t shrink pores either.”
While pore size is mostly determined by genetics, there are a few other factors that can make pores appear more noticeable. “In some individuals, sebaceous glands are larger at baseline. In other individuals, sebaceous glands increase in size with age,” explained Dr. Sara Hogan, a board-certified dermatologist and founder of Cosmedica Dermatology. “Hormones can also influence the activity of sebaceous glands. Age and sun-related damage to the skin can lead to a loss of skin elasticity, which can affect structures in the skin. In all of these instances, pores can appear to be more prominent.”
So what’s the perfect temperature for washing your face?
Cleansing your skin with hot water might feel soothing, but it can strip away natural oils. Since these oils help lock in moisture and keep the skin hydrated, exposing your skin to hot water can reduce its ability to retain moisture, leaving it more sensitive and prone to dryness, redness and irritation. “Over time, it can exacerbate conditions like eczema or rosacea and contribute to premature aging by damaging collagen and elastin,” explained Dr. Nicole Lee, a dermatologist and owner of Epoch Dermatology.
That doesn’t mean cold water is the answer for washing your face, either. Exposing your skin to hot or cold temperatures can create unnecessary stress. “Using water that’s too cold to wash your face can feel refreshing and temporarily reduce puffiness, but it may not cleanse as effectively or allow skin care products to absorb well. Over time, this could lead to clogged pores and less effective skin care,” Lee said.
For optimal skin health and to get the most out of your cleanser, dermatologists agree that comfortably warm water is the way to go. “Lukewarm water is ideal for cleansing as it effectively removes dirt, oil and makeup while preserving the skin’s natural oils, allowing skin care products to absorb better,” Lee explained.
Are any skin types better suited for hot water?
The short answer is no.
Those with certain skin types and conditions like rosacea or eczema can be more sensitive to water temperature, and may find that hot water exacerbates redness and irritation. “Hot water can dilate blood vessels, which can worsen flushing in rosacea-prone skin,” Kopelman said.
But even if you don’t have sensitive skin, washing your face with hot water isn’t doing you any favours. “Generally speaking, I caution against using hot water on the face, regardless of skin type,” Kopelman explained.
While warmer water — not hot — can help dissolve excess sebum for those with very oily skin, it’s important to avoid temperatures that are too high, as this can trigger increased oil production as the skin tries to compensate for the dryness caused by having its barrier stripped. “While there might be a slight benefit in using warmer water for oily skin, it’s crucial to keep it within a moderate temperature range,” Kopelman advised.
Is it ever OK to wash your face with cold water?
Washing your face with cold water offers its own set of benefits.
“Cold water can help to soothe inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for conditions like rosacea or after certain dermatological procedures,” Kopelman said. “It can also reduce morning puffiness by constricting blood vessels, giving the skin a refreshed appearance.”
However, because cold water is not as effective at removing oils and thoroughly cleansing the skin, Kopelman suggests starting with lukewarm water to cleanse and, if desired, finishing with a splash of cold water to invigorate the skin.
These skin care habits help maintain optimal pore health.
Though enlarged pores are a common concern, there’s no way to actually change their size since they’re genetically determined. But with a combination of good skin care habits, you can help minimise skin stress and maintain healthy pores. Along with cleansing twice a day using noncomedogenic products to remove dirt, oil and makeup without clogging your pores, protecting your skin from the sun with broad-spectrum sunscreen can reduce stress from ultraviolet radiation. Regular exfoliation also helps smooth the skin and make pores appear less noticeable. “Mild chemical exfoliants like salicylic acid can help keep pores clear by dissolving sebum and dead skin cells,” Kopelman said. “Additionally, hydration is key. Using a suitable moisturiser keeps the skin barrier intact and prevents overproduction of oil.”