Some men go straight to bed without doing a thing to their face, while others might embrace a 10-step skin care routine. But for anyone who’s a bit less high-maintenance than the latter and still wants to do a little something, what’s the best bare minimum skin care routine?
There are some differences between men’s and women’s skin, which means there are a few guidelines to follow. HuffPost spoke to four board-certified dermatologists on the ideal skin care routine for men who want to give just a little TLC to their face.
First, let’s talk about men’s skin.
There are measurable differences between male and female skin regarding the skin’s thickness, sebum production and transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
“Men’s skin is approximately 25% thicker than women’s due to higher collagen density. This can make men’s skin more resilient but also more prone to certain types of acne and oiliness,” said Dr. Hannah Kopelman, a board-certified dermatologist.
There are hormonal fluctuations for both, but women tend to be more affected by them. Acne, for example, is reduced post-puberty for most men. “Women tend to experience adult acne at a higher level compared to men; about 12-22% of adult U.S. women over 20 experience acne compared to 3% of adult U.S. men,” explained Dr. Anar Mikailov, a board-certified dermatologist.
“About 85% of adult acne patients are women, whereas about 15% are men,” added Dr. Omer Ibrahim, a board-certified dermatologist and co-director of research at Chicago Cosmetic Surgery and Dermatology.
Also, more men vs. women tend to shave their faces, which often leads to ingrown hairs that look like pimples along the beardline, said Ibrahim. This creates the need for a specific post-shave product to avoid irritation and ingrown hair.
However, despite these differences, men can experience the same conditions as women, from eczema to acne and skin sagging. These may happen at different rates, though; men tend to present wrinkles and a reduction in hydration and thickness in a more linear way, whereas women can notice more abrupt changes due to menopause, Ibrahim explained.
“For men who have more oily skin or are acne-prone, the skin care routine recommended would be the same as for women. That’s the same with sensitive, dry or normal skin,” Mikailov said.
What about the running joke that men can use dish soap on their face?
All experts agreed that this old adage is deeply rooted in sexism and gendered marketing.
“Women have been taught to concentrate on ‘looking good’ in outdated gender norms, thus often seeking extensive skin routines. Men are not taught to focus on this as much. This is all outdated,” said Dr. Mona A. Gohara, a board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor of dermatology at Yale School of Medicine.
In reality, men have similar skin needs as women. She added, “Everyone should be cleansing, moisturising and using suncreen at the minimum. Men have less of a tendency to engage in an elaborate skin routine because of outdated gender expectations around beauty and self-care.”
“In the U.S., young boys are less exposed to having a skin care routine compared to young girls,” Mikailov said. “We’re seeing girls as young as 10 and 11 mimic older women on social media with multi-step skin care routines. Men, unless they have specific skin issues where they’ve consulted a dermatologist, are usually not as educated.”
“Nowadays, more and more men, particularly younger men, are learning about hygiene and skin care from social media and realising that simple, basic cleansers, moisturisers and SPFs can make the skin feel more comfortable,” agreed Ibrahim.
The best basic skin care routine for men, according to the experts.
Morning: SPF
“In the morning, unless the skin is very oily, most people will not need to do more than rinse with warm water to cleanse. Be careful not to use scalding hot water, as that can strip the skin,” Ibrahim said. For those with oily skin, a gentle cleanser can be used in the morning as the first step.
“The most crucial step in any skin care routine, regardless of gender, is daily sun protection,” Kopelman said. A moisturiser and a sunscreen, or a moisturiser with SPF 30-plus, is essential to protect the skin from harmful UV rays, skin aging and skin cancer. A two-in-one product is OK to use here, as long as the adequate amount of cream is applied to form a proper sunscreen film.
Moisturising will help strengthen the skin barrier, Gohara said.To note, chemical sunscreens will likely work better, as they won’t leave a white cast and require less rubbing into the skin. But if your skin is sensitive, a physical (mineral) formula may be better.
Night: Cleanser and moisturiser
When it comes to cleansing, men may prefer a foaming cleanser to be used once a day, but if the skin is rather dry, a hydrating cleanser is more suitable.
“Even if makeup is not worn, cleansing the skin from dust, dirt and other external pollutants helps the skin function better,” Ibrahim said.
At night, any basic moisturiser can be used, but for men who want to take their skin care a step further, they can opt for a moisturiser with retinol at night, which will help with collagen production.
The moisturiser should feel comfortable on the skin and lightweight, meaning you might want to look for gel or noncomedogenic textures.
“In general, I recommend products that are fragrance-free to limit any potential irritations,” Mikailov noted.