Picture this: Your manicure is on its last legs, and your knee-jerk reaction is to start picking it off. Sure, it may seem like you’re just getting rid of unsightly nail polish, but really, your nails are suffering — perhaps even more than they would from biting.
“Think of your nails as a notepad, and imagine that each time you pick off your polish, you’re tearing pages out of the notepad,” said Los Angeles-based manicurist Vanessa Sanchez McCullough with the nail brand CND.
Here’s what experts want you to know about picking off nail polish.
How Are Nails Structured?
First, let’s look at how nails are structured. The nail plate is the hard, keratinised structure composed of layers of nail cells, or onychocytes — and this is what most people refer to as “the nail,” said Dr. Dana Stern, a board-certified dermatologist and the founder of nail care brand Dr. Dana.
Then there’s the nail bed, a soft-tissue structure under the nail plate that carries a rich supply of nerves and blood. The “root” of the nail is called the nail matrix. It’s known as the nail-producing centre and includes the lunula, the partially visible half-moon at the base of the nail plate. Finally, the cuticles are directly over the nail matrix and serve as a protective seal that prevents moisture and infections from entering the nail unit, Stern explained.
Why You Shouldn’t Pick Off Your Nail Polish
It may be difficult to resist the urge to pick off your nail polish, but McCullough said that this habit is one of the easiest ways to damage your nails. “I have experienced clients who think they are peeling just polish, but in fact are peeling chunks of their natural nail, leaving the nail bed exposed,” she explained. Not only can this be painful, but exposed nail beds can also make the nails more vulnerable to environmental conditions that might cause further damage.
Stern agreed, adding that when you apply nail polish, it adheres to the top layers of nail cells, which can already be fragile and prone to peeling and sloughing. “When nail polish is picked off, these top layers of onychocytes can also be inadvertently removed along with the polish, leaving the nail with an uneven surface and white patches called keratin granulations,” she said. Though keratin granulations aren’t inherently harmful, they are a sign of dehydration, and treatment may require you to take a break from nail polish in general.
What’s more, picking off nail polish can cause a condition called onycholysis, in which the nail plate separates from the nail bed. “I have seen women cause onycholysis because the repetitive peeling is traumatic to the nail,” said McCullough. “The nail then needs to be cut back short, and it can be really painful.”
In addition to removing the superficial layers of nail cells and leading to surface irregularities, the nail plate can thin out over time if the picking is continuous and chronic. “Thinned-out nails no longer have any structure,” warned McCullough. “They will likely snag on the simplest things, like socks, shirts or your hair, and you’ll likely have to keep your nails trimmed short to avoid this from happening.”
That’s not all. Picking off nail polish can cause your nail beds to appear red and can lead to sensitivities to both hot and cold temperatures, said McCullough, explaining that it also prevents longevity with gel manicures since gel polish works best on healthy nails.
Does It Matter What Type Of Nail Polish You Pick Off?
“Traditional nail polish is a bit less damaging to pick off because there’s less adhesion compared to gel polish,” McCullough said.
Gel base coats, in particular, are formulated to adhere to the keratin in the natural nails and remain until they’re properly removed with acetone. That’s why gel polishes are well loved for being long-lasting.
So if you pick off a gel polish, you’re likely picking off pieces of your nail that are firmly bonded to the base coat — which is a recipe for onycholysis.
What To Do If You Picked Off Your Nail Polish
It’s unlikely that your nails are forever doomed if you had one bad episode of peeling off polish. But if you’re engaging in the habit repetitively, it can become an issue. “Each time you pick, you’re peeling off layers of your nail plate, and there are only so many layers to work with,” said Stern.
It’s important to give your nails time to recover, and this will vary depending on the severity of the damage. Stern explained that keratin granulations typically grow out as the nail regrows, usually over a few weeks. But keep in mind that toenails have a much slower growth rate than fingernails and may need months to recover.
If your nails are damaged as a result of peeling off nail polish, there are some at-home remedies to consider. One is exfoliation. “When your skin is dry and peeling, you reach for the nearest loofah or brush to exfoliate the dead cells — the same concept is true of the nail,” Stern said. “If you were to look at a peeling, picked-at nail under the microscope, you would see that the nail cells are detached, lifted and separating.” Reaching for a nail exfoliation product can help expedite recovery.
Cuticle oils can also be a big help since nails, like hair, are less prone to breakage if they’re properly conditioned. “Keeping your nail plate and cuticles conditioned will promote healthy nail growth and help keep the nails looking and feeling better,” McCullough said.
Finally, give your nails a breather from any polish. “It’s always a good idea to let the nails recover before jumping back into nail cosmetics,” said Stern, who also recommended wearing gloves when using home cleaners or washing dishes to prevent further dehydration and damage.